On the waves of life

April 14th 2004

As I lay here in a hammock I reflect back on this day as the sounds of the crashing waves roll like a soft lullaby. I try to think where it all began, at first I thought it was the airport, but I have been there before many times. Then I said to myself “surely” I was when I pressed the button to see if the light was going to turn red or green. If it were red I was going to have to go through the customs search process. My light was green. Maybe it was the cab ride to my destination. The ride was about 45 minuets from the airport. We traveled through a 2 lane highway that was masterfully cut through a once lush green jungle. But that wasn’t the start of my adventure either. So, it had to be when I opened the door to my beach front bungalow. As I looked over my 2 story place and marveled at the simplicity of it all, including the ladder leading upstairs made of tree limbs. It was fabulous, beyond all descriptions, yet still not the answer I was seeking. I know deep in my heart that it wasn’t my destination which marks the start of my adventure. It wasn’t the awesome set of waves that I caught my first hour out in the water. No the true beginning started 363 days ago on April 16th 2003, when I took my first step in the ocean at San Onofre while holding to my first surfboard. It has been almost a year, and here I am, spending 12 nights in main land Mexico at some small fishing village. It has been a blast so far. Already I have cut my foot and scraped my back, small lessons to learning how to reef surf. This is only day 1, I am well feed on cheap tacos and pleasantly calm with my Coronas. Who would have thought that I could have come so far in such a short time? Next year I will be going to surf the waters of Africa. But for now, I will rest in my hammock, drink my beer and listen to My Lady sing me her lullaby.


April 15, 2004

Day 2 – This morning I woke up to sound of My Lady singing to me. Her song was sweet and inviting. I could not resist her melody. So, I awoke and immediately went for my board. My Lady and I began our dance first thing in the morning even before breakfast. When I came out my first thought of was a beer. Life is good when one can simply enjoy the pleasures of life without abuse. As I walked along the cobble stone streets, mesmerized at its simplicity and the culture it had nourished, I became sadden to realize that this once unknown fishing village with unpaved roads is destines to become a fast paced resort one day. I am happy to be here at this time. After eating some really great fish and shrimp tacos, I took a stroll down the street. It was at this time when I met up with Captain Pablo and his wife Patty. I started talking to them about a surf trip, but $150 for a half day was steep for just myself. Captain Pablo suggested I find a group of people to share the fare with. But something about the Captain intrigued me. His wife and himself are both Americans. They have a very friendly restaurant, tour business and a surf school with board rentals going on. However, I was more captivated about the story as to how they got here. 10 years ago to remove themselves from US lifestyle they moved out here. I will learn more about them ver a beer one night. As for a group to share the surf trip, well I found one 6 other guys from WA. We will be going on an all day trip tomorrow, my 1-year anniversary of surfing. Stoked is the best way to describe it. I wonder what Cat would think of me now. All I can say is “thanks girl”, if you would have never gave me the brush off I may never had started surfing. But here I am now, with a true love in a whole other country. Ciao-

April 18, 2004
It has been 3 days now. And by far I have had shared the most memorable moments of my life with 8 other people, each of whom I have never met before the other day. On my 1 year anniversary with My Love, I went on a surf trip. The boat was shared by 6 other people, each of who all became friends. I find it amazing how in a foreign country 6 lives can be drawn together by a common love. Each of the six have a “feed the rat” mentality. Mentality, that may be the wrong word for it. More like “life style” is more appropriate for the description. We each have a shared need, desire and hope to fill a what can only be described as a blood cell, which runs through our veins. Surf, it has become part of each of us and now we are forever joined through it. It is wonderful to share the love of my lady with the pure of heart. They have made Friday April 16, 2004 a very special day for me and basked in my glory of surfing for 1 year. It was as if God had blessed me with a special family to celebrate my true beginning with My Lady and the wondrous surf she will give unto me.

April 19, 2004
Today life was at a very slow pace, I had some good quality time with My Lady first thing in the morning. It seems that this has been the best way to start the day off. I also learned that life can be very relaxling when you are concerned about nothing more but the next session of surf. I will have to admit that even though I would not mind living in this small little fishing town, it would have to be because it’s something I desire and not because I need to run for the real world. I have my son, My Lady, my work and my business, this is enough to keep me planted in the real world. I say this because of the few American locals that I have met. Each of them in their own mind have a justifiable reason to have re planted here, but only one will admit that he ran from the responsibilities of the real world. I will have to write more about each of them to begin to fully describe them.
As it seems life in a fishing village has much more to offer then good surf and cheap tacos. As the tourism grows so will the activities. I know in my heart that when I got here I came with nobody and no expectations. However, when I leave here, I will be leaving with 8 new friends, new talents and a million wondrous memories. Tonight was the night I learned some of the basic salsa moves. All of this was made possible through the extreme friendliness of the locals. Nada, who help me to learn to salsa, said I was a natural and would make my girlfriend very happy, for it took her a year to learn what she had just taught me. I was very flattered and happy, but sadly I had to explain to her and her husband that all I need now is a girlfriend to explore that with. It was a great night.
Even thought the nightlife has been extremely fun, I have come to this village with a purpose and that is to surf. And surf I have done. Tomorrow, I will be going on my 3rd boat trip. I am very excited because today after removing the 2 fins from my board and dropping my thruster back more. I have discovered that I am looser on my board thus giving me more maneuverability. So hopefully tomorrow I will be getting some really great rides. Until then … one-two step and twist your hip.

April 21, 2004
As it seems, some days my lady can be very fickle. On our 3rd boat trip there was no swell. Thus making it a dead surfless adventure. However, none the less it was still an experience I would not trade for the world.
Like going to my home break and finding people who recognize me. I still find it very foreign how a small group of people from all around the world can have such a wonderful time without talking business. I have been privileged with those who are millionaires to be able to break bread with on many occasions. I love it.
My Lady has been a bit short on her gracious waves and swell. But still I shall love every single moment of it. Good night.

I have heard them before in the past, either passed on by discussion or depicted in the movies. The typical stereotype of a surfer is …
A long hair, jobless, no goals, brawly, pot smoking beach bum who always say “Dude” or “Bro”.
Strange I have now been surfing for nearly 8 months and have logged in over 100 sessions of surf some short some long. I go no less then 3 times a week, weather permitting of course. The funny thing is I have seen no one person who completely fits this stereotype. In fact it has been quite the opposite. Most of the people I have met in the line up have been friendly. Industriousness, entrepreneurs, strong, focused and plenty of short hair (with the exception of the women). They drive good family cars, High end SUV’s, and enjoy the time with family and friends. In fact, my own personal focus has never been clearer. Perhaps this is due to the fact that I can now wait patiently for a wave that will only come it its time and not mine. I don’t know it just seems that surfing has changed me on the inside. I wonder where these stereotypes first came from. Maybe at one time they were correct but form what I have looked into even in the beginning the first surfers were bold and pioneered a new path for those like ourselves, In fact I think some of the original surfers are better role models then some of these idiots that kids look up to today. Just some thoughts that’s all

It’s been a horribly long excruciating 12 days without any surf in my life. I would desperately try to keep my thoughts away from good clean sets of waves peeling with such grace as if they were rhythmic beats of a soothing melody flowing with the sound of its music. I was sad because I was sick for the first part of the week and couldn’t go surfing. I didn’t really mind much considering for the most part My Lady decided to take a break and barley offer out a few ankle biters to the few lucky surfer who were quick enough to catch them. Finally after 4 days of having that damm cold I began to get excited because after Thanks Giving I would be able to dance with my lady again before work. However, as if there was some angry curse taunting me the night before Friday I caught this extremely bad chest cold. It was horrible I’d cough so bad that I felt as if somebody was ripping my lungs out, and then after the total extraction of my lungs they would pound my chest with a 2 ton heavy fist until I was left without a breath. It was a nightmare and all I could think about was the hours of surf I would be missing this weekend. Monday, I was still feeling pretty lousy just not as bad as before, so I check the surf report (*surf) on my cell phone and heard the hopeful promise of a decent swell coming for us Tuesday. That was it, I would not stand for it any longer I was going to play with My Lady with or without my lungs, even though Id prefer it with my lungs … you know that oxygen and breathing thing … However, I refuse to take another day without the soothing comfort of My Lady’s soft hand caressing my face or being totally emerged in her power and energy becoming momentarily one with her. This will not go another day I am going surfing tomorrow like it or not, quickly became a new mantra for me on Monday. Today finally came, I was in my new full suit (used of course) stretching out and warming up along the shoreline at 6:15 am. The waves were not very big 3-4’ fair plus on the shape some slight offshore winds but over all looking very inviting. My heart begins to feel that familiar thump of excitement mixed with a respectful fear. I was worried I would have a rough session because I could still feel the pains in my chest, my lungs clammy with thick mucus clinging to my every inner fiber as if it were some big batch of bisquick biscuit dough. F it I told my self I am going in. Seconds later as I felt the welcoming sprays of My Lady’s fingers dancing across my face as I paddled out to spend some good quality time with her. I was feeling great. Much to my surprise I had a great session, a few good sets were coming through. And of course My Lady rewarded my return with the perfect wave. She made it just for me and I knew this in the heart of my sprit. As I was paddling for the nicely shaped 4 footer, all the sounds of the world became silenced and the only thing I could see and hear was that same rhythmic motion of music I had dreamed about days earlier. It was perfect. I was in a zone with My Lady as she welcomed me back. I could feel her energy transferring through my body and for a few short moments becoming one with her before she thrusts me out to ride gracefully along her body as she pushed behind me. It was a great way to exit the ocean and leave My Lady for the day. As I walked out on to the shoreline I had noticed that my breathing wasn’t so labored as before. In fact I felt great! Wow, I thought. I wonder what other pleasures I will discover in my years to come both health wise and life wise. I guess that why I paddle out every day in life feeling good or not, only because you will just never know unless you push forward. My chest feels lighter now, I don’t know maybe it was the salt in the water or just the rush of pure honest and natural energy that flowed through me. Whatever it was I thank my Lady for it, and look forward to more quality time with her.

This morning in Huntington Beach, because of a late take off, I was in the barrel of a 6' for a few seconds. It was just long enough for me to experience the wondrous echo of an errie hollow sound, before I got POUNDED like a pea. I was tossed and turned like a rag doll beneath the wave. When I came up I was right under another huge break. Got tossed around this time like I was in a washing machine. I took in a lot of water this time and was short of breath. However, now I was in a perfect position to take off on a hard 4 footer that gave me a very exciting ride and made it all worth it. The thing is, in the back of my mind I know I could of drowned, but the crazy thing is ... I CAN'T WAIT till tomorrow to go out again. Oh well, wipeouts come and wipeouts go right? You have got to love this to get out there and want to continue to do it all over again :) I have to ask my self Why? Am I crazy? Or just plain stupid? Some might accuse me of being both. But I will have to be the first to admit, I feel real stupid if I didn't go out again. I respect the ocean very much and know to just relax when things like this occur, don't panic and breathe in fresh air your first chance. Like life sometimes certain events can toss you around and leave you feeling as if you were in a washing machine but if you gave up then you would have missed the next chance to make it. I don't have a death wish in fact, its quite the opposite, I have a life wish and a deep resounding faith in Christ. Learning curves thats all. Nothing more nothing less. We all gothrough them the question is do we run from them or simply ride the next wave in?

Now here are some prayers for me to remember.

Surfers' Prayer
By Brother Mike Sullivan
My wave that art in the ocean
hollow be thy frame
may they come
until I'm done
on earth man, this is heaven
give us this day
our daily sets
and forgive us our drop ins
as we forgive those who drop in against us
and deliver us from closeouts
amen
brother mike

Surfers' Prayer
By Doug Rhodes
Oh God of Surfing Wind and Sea,
let thy bounty come to me.
Give me large, give me small,
any size - I'll take them all.
Just to rise upon the face
to see the crest, my heart will race.
I feel the sea within my veins
but know its you who holds the reins.
If I fall please drop me slow,
as wipeout come and wipeouts go,
I give my life without a fee,
this I pray my God of Sea.........
Just a thought.... Doug Rhodes
Annapolis Surf Club

The Lord's Board Prayer
By Paul Magruder
Our swell that art in the ocean
Hollow be thy shape.
Thy lip shall come
It will be done
In No Cal
As it is in Indo.
Give us this day our daily barrel
and forgive us our drop-ins
as we forgive not those who dropp-in on us.
And lead us not into the reef
but deliver us from the barrel.

Extracted from the letters section of
Surfer Magazine (Nov 2002), Vol. 43, No.12.

Hard to believe but this was my result. Is this who I am??? I like to think out of the box and believe that its is life’s obscurities and unpredictable events which shape who we are and not some set of numbers ... hmm I guess I do adapt to change well and I creativity question things well thinking fast on my feet? Hmmm SUUUPPPER GEENIUS, yes I like the sound of that LOL. Anyways, this was the result....

During the test, you answered four different types of questions — mathematical, visual-spatial, linguistic and logical. We were able to analyze how you did on of those questions, which reveals the way your brain processes information.

We also compared your answers with others who have taken the test, and according to the sorts of questions you got correct, we can tell your Intellectual Type is an Inventive Inquisitor.

You have the unusual distinction of being equally good at math and verbal skills. This means you are a creative thinker and are uniquely good at teaching others through experiences. You are also a great improviser and very good at handling change.

What drives a person to take a round trip which will put 108 miles on their cars odometer? Surf. That could be the only answer. Good or bad, you take it. It doesn’t mater if the wave conditions or not of the greatest. The one hour wait to get into the beach after the one hour drive means nothing. The echoing words in the back of your conscious rings hard “You have come too far and too long to turn back”. It all comes into play when you first step into the liquid playfield. It is a field like no other known to any sport. The field is ALIVE. It is a 3D environment, constantly changing. The ocean leaves you wanting as you wait. Your desire resists the temptation to become desperation. Then it happens … my Lady has heard your thoughts and gives you that one wave. It’s the one wave that makes it all worth it. The alarm clock, the gas, the time and even the frustration all go away as you pop up on your board and work in sync with the evolving environment around you as you ride a wave into a bliss of joy. Surfing. All it takes is just one, but be fair warned once you get that one, you can never look back at who you were, for now you are somebody new. I have my new dragon to chase now; each is different from the last. Like AA "take it one day at a time" … there is a new blood in me that started 6 months ago, and now I just take it one wave at a time. I am always surprised at how surfing has such a great effect on ones psyche. I can speak from experience now and say how surfing has changed me. I don’t have many regrets in life but if I had to add to the short list of them it would be that I didn’t start surfing earlier in life by like at least 15 years. I wonder sometimes where my life would have gone, what would have happened to me where I would be today. I may never know, but I do know this I am glad that I got here and I don’t ever plan to leave it. I have focus, goals and ambitions. The next wave I eagerly await. I patiently wait for it to come allowing for me to paddle into it and begin to ride where she takes me. If I fall off it … well then I get up and start over again with the same vigor I had for the last. It seems so simple, I guess I have always known this, but this time it’s different. No longer is the mentality just hopeful thought or idle speech, it is now a practiced method. Funny how all this carries over into life, one wave of events can come and just sweep you over. When it happens you are left with only two choices ride it, or break through it and prepare for the next one. When you do ride it you are left with more choices … do you let the events ride you or do you ride the wave? Then when it all ends, what’s next … more choices of course, do I push forward and work through the same process all over again or do I exit the ocean? Then when I do exit the ocean what do I do next? Do I quit forever and hide or do I clean myself off and embrace the next inevitable event in life which will bring me back to start over again. I can remember a time when I would have chosen to leave the beach and never to return, always hiding or dodging the choices we are all forced to make. Allowing for circumstances to knock me over and not be willing to get up and face it all over again. Surfing has changed me. It has sunk its hooks deep into my blood and has taught me to face the waves, make the choices, and ride the event. Then when the event is over, dust myself off and prepare to do it all over again, never fearing the choice. In fact through surfing I have learned to embrace the choices I make. Some choices are not always for the best. However, I would have never known if I didn’t make the choice to begin with. If I fail or make the wrong choice … oh well … its life after all. Sometimes the choices we make, like the waves in the ocean, could be bad judgment and cause us to fall crash and tumble. Like a late take off when trying to catch a wave. But, what you do at that moment is what matters. If I fear being tossed and turned beneath a wave like some rag doll again, I may never find that one wave that makes it all worth wild. In life, if I fear that the choices I make may cause me to fail … I might never succeed. I am prepared to be tossed like a rag doll again and again if it means I could ride just one wave. In life I am prepared to make my choices and venture forward, accepting the result in constant hope that it will bring a better future for me and my son.