On the waves of life

A new adventure of the same journey - Part 1

2004-04-29T14:34:00.000-07:00

April 14th 2004

As I lay here in a hammock I reflect back on this day as the sounds of the crashing waves roll like a soft lullaby. I try to think where it all began, at first I thought it was the airport, but I have been there before many times. Then I said to myself “surely” I was when I pressed the button to see if the light was going to turn red or green. If it were red I was going to have to go through the customs search process. My light was green. Maybe it was the cab ride to my destination. The ride was about 45 minuets from the airport. We traveled through a 2 lane highway that was masterfully cut through a once lush green jungle. But that wasn’t the start of my adventure either. So, it had to be when I opened the door to my beach front bungalow. As I looked over my 2 story place and marveled at the simplicity of it all, including the ladder leading upstairs made of tree limbs. It was fabulous, beyond all descriptions, yet still not the answer I was seeking. I know deep in my heart that it wasn’t my destination which marks the start of my adventure. It wasn’t the awesome set of waves that I caught my first hour out in the water. No the true beginning started 363 days ago on April 16th 2003, when I took my first step in the ocean at San Onofre while holding to my first surfboard. It has been almost a year, and here I am, spending 12 nights in main land Mexico at some small fishing village. It has been a blast so far. Already I have cut my foot and scraped my back, small lessons to learning how to reef surf. This is only day 1, I am well feed on cheap tacos and pleasantly calm with my Coronas. Who would have thought that I could have come so far in such a short time? Next year I will be going to surf the waters of Africa. But for now, I will rest in my hammock, drink my beer and listen to My Lady sing me her lullaby.

April 15, 2004

Day 2 – This morning I woke up to sound of My Lady singing to me. Her song was sweet and inviting. I could not resist her melody. So, I awoke and immediately went for my board. My Lady and I began our dance first thing in the morning even before breakfast. When I came out my first thought of was a beer. Life is good when one can simply enjoy the pleasures of life without abuse. As I walked along the cobble stone streets, mesmerized at its simplicity and the culture it had nourished, I became sadden to realize that this once unknown fishing village with unpaved roads is destines to become a fast paced resort one day. I am happy to be here at this time. After eating some really great fish and shrimp tacos, I took a stroll down the street. It was at this time when I met up with Captain Pablo and his wife Patty. I started talking to them about a surf trip, but $150 for a half day was steep for just myself. Captain Pablo suggested I find a group of people to share the fare with. But something about the Captain intrigued me. His wife and himself are both Americans. They have a very friendly restaurant, tour business and a surf school with board rentals going on. However, I was more captivated about the story as to how they got here. 10 years ago to remove themselves from US lifestyle they moved out here. I will learn more about them ver a beer one night. As for a group to share the surf trip, well I found one 6 other guys from WA. We will be going on an all day trip tomorrow, my 1-year anniversary of surfing. Stoked is the best way to describe it. I wonder what Cat would think of me now. All I can say is “thanks girl”, if you would have never gave me the brush off I may never had started surfing. But here I am now, with a true love in a whole other country. Ciao-

April 18, 2004
It has been 3 days now. And by far I have had shared the most memorable moments of my life with 8 other people, each of whom I have never met before the other day. On my 1 year anniversary with My Love, I went on a surf trip. The boat was shared by 6 other people, each of who all became friends. I find it amazing how in a foreign country 6 lives can be drawn together by a common love. Each of the six have a “feed the rat” mentality. Mentality, that may be the wrong word for it. More like “life style” is more appropriate for the description. We each have a shared need, desire and hope to fill a what can only be described as a blood cell, which runs through our veins. Surf, it has become part of each of us and now we are forever joined through it. It is wonderful to share the love of my lady with the pure of heart. They have made Friday April 16, 2004 a very special day for me and basked in my glory of surfing for 1 year. It was as if God had blessed me with a special family to celebrate my true beginning with My Lady and the wondrous surf she will give unto me.

April 19, 2004
Today life was at a very slow pace, I had some good quality time with My Lady first thing in the morning. It seems that this has been the best way to start the day off. I also learned that life can be very relaxling when you are concerned about nothing more but the next session of surf. I will have to admit that even though I would not mind living in this small little fishing town, it would have to be because it’s something I desire and not because I need to run for the real world. I have my son, My Lady, my work and my business, this is enough to keep me planted in the real world. I say this because of the few American locals that I have met. Each of them in their own mind have a justifiable reason to have re planted here, but only one will admit that he ran from the responsibilities of the real world. I will have to write more about each of them to begin to fully describe them.
As it seems life in a fishing village has much more to offer then good surf and cheap tacos. As the tourism grows so will the activities. I know in my heart that when I got here I came with nobody and no expectations. However, when I leave here, I will be leaving with 8 new friends, new talents and a million wondrous memories. Tonight was the night I learned some of the basic salsa moves. All of this was made possible through the extreme friendliness of the locals. Nada, who help me to learn to salsa, said I was a natural and would make my girlfriend very happy, for it took her a year to learn what she had just taught me. I was very flattered and happy, but sadly I had to explain to her and her husband that all I need now is a girlfriend to explore that with. It was a great night.
Even thought the nightlife has been extremely fun, I have come to this village with a purpose and that is to surf. And surf I have done. Tomorrow, I will be going on my 3rd boat trip. I am very excited because today after removing the 2 fins from my board and dropping my thruster back more. I have discovered that I am looser on my board thus giving me more maneuverability. So hopefully tomorrow I will be getting some really great rides. Until then … one-two step and twist your hip.

April 21, 2004
As it seems, some days my lady can be very fickle. On our 3rd boat trip there was no swell. Thus making it a dead surfless adventure. However, none the less it was still an experience I would not trade for the world.
Like going to my home break and finding people who recognize me. I still find it very foreign how a small group of people from all around the world can have such a wonderful time without talking business. I have been privileged with those who are millionaires to be able to break bread with on many occasions. I love it.
My Lady has been a bit short on her gracious waves and swell. But still I shall love every single moment of it. Good night.

Surfer Stereotypes

2003-12-11T11:00:00.000-08:00

I have heard them before in the past, either passed on by discussion or depicted in the movies. The typical stereotype of a surfer is …
A long hair, jobless, no goals, brawly, pot smoking beach bum who always say “Dude” or “Bro”.
Strange I have now been surfing for nearly 8 months and have logged in over 100 sessions of surf some short some long. I go no less then 3 times a week, weather permitting of course. The funny thing is I have seen no one person who completely fits this stereotype. In fact it has been quite the opposite. Most of the people I have met in the line up have been friendly. Industriousness, entrepreneurs, strong, focused and plenty of short hair (with the exception of the women). They drive good family cars, High end SUV’s, and enjoy the time with family and friends. In fact, my own personal focus has never been clearer. Perhaps this is due to the fact that I can now wait patiently for a wave that will only come it its time and not mine. I don’t know it just seems that surfing has changed me on the inside. I wonder where these stereotypes first came from. Maybe at one time they were correct but form what I have looked into even in the beginning the first surfers were bold and pioneered a new path for those like ourselves, In fact I think some of the original surfers are better role models then some of these idiots that kids look up to today. Just some thoughts that’s all

Therapeutic values of the Ocean

2003-12-02T10:56:00.000-08:00

It’s been a horribly long excruciating 12 days without any surf in my life. I would desperately try to keep my thoughts away from good clean sets of waves peeling with such grace as if they were rhythmic beats of a soothing melody flowing with the sound of its music. I was sad because I was sick for the first part of the week and couldn’t go surfing. I didn’t really mind much considering for the most part My Lady decided to take a break and barley offer out a few ankle biters to the few lucky surfer who were quick enough to catch them. Finally after 4 days of having that damm cold I began to get excited because after Thanks Giving I would be able to dance with my lady again before work. However, as if there was some angry curse taunting me the night before Friday I caught this extremely bad chest cold. It was horrible I’d cough so bad that I felt as if somebody was ripping my lungs out, and then after the total extraction of my lungs they would pound my chest with a 2 ton heavy fist until I was left without a breath. It was a nightmare and all I could think about was the hours of surf I would be missing this weekend. Monday, I was still feeling pretty lousy just not as bad as before, so I check the surf report (*surf) on my cell phone and heard the hopeful promise of a decent swell coming for us Tuesday. That was it, I would not stand for it any longer I was going to play with My Lady with or without my lungs, even though Id prefer it with my lungs … you know that oxygen and breathing thing … However, I refuse to take another day without the soothing comfort of My Lady’s soft hand caressing my face or being totally emerged in her power and energy becoming momentarily one with her. This will not go another day I am going surfing tomorrow like it or not, quickly became a new mantra for me on Monday. Today finally came, I was in my new full suit (used of course) stretching out and warming up along the shoreline at 6:15 am. The waves were not very big 3-4’ fair plus on the shape some slight offshore winds but over all looking very inviting. My heart begins to feel that familiar thump of excitement mixed with a respectful fear. I was worried I would have a rough session because I could still feel the pains in my chest, my lungs clammy with thick mucus clinging to my every inner fiber as if it were some big batch of bisquick biscuit dough. F it I told my self I am going in. Seconds later as I felt the welcoming sprays of My Lady’s fingers dancing across my face as I paddled out to spend some good quality time with her. I was feeling great. Much to my surprise I had a great session, a few good sets were coming through. And of course My Lady rewarded my return with the perfect wave. She made it just for me and I knew this in the heart of my sprit. As I was paddling for the nicely shaped 4 footer, all the sounds of the world became silenced and the only thing I could see and hear was that same rhythmic motion of music I had dreamed about days earlier. It was perfect. I was in a zone with My Lady as she welcomed me back. I could feel her energy transferring through my body and for a few short moments becoming one with her before she thrusts me out to ride gracefully along her body as she pushed behind me. It was a great way to exit the ocean and leave My Lady for the day. As I walked out on to the shoreline I had noticed that my breathing wasn’t so labored as before. In fact I felt great! Wow, I thought. I wonder what other pleasures I will discover in my years to come both health wise and life wise. I guess that why I paddle out every day in life feeling good or not, only because you will just never know unless you push forward. My chest feels lighter now, I don’t know maybe it was the salt in the water or just the rush of pure honest and natural energy that flowed through me. Whatever it was I thank my Lady for it, and look forward to more quality time with her.

To dance with insanity

2003-11-18T14:32:00.000-08:00

This morning in Huntington Beach, because of a late take off, I was in the barrel of a 6' for a few seconds. It was just long enough for me to experience the wondrous echo of an errie hollow sound, before I got POUNDED like a pea. I was tossed and turned like a rag doll beneath the wave. When I came up I was right under another huge break. Got tossed around this time like I was in a washing machine. I took in a lot of water this time and was short of breath. However, now I was in a perfect position to take off on a hard 4 footer that gave me a very exciting ride and made it all worth it. The thing is, in the back of my mind I know I could of drowned, but the crazy thing is ... I CAN'T WAIT till tomorrow to go out again. Oh well, wipeouts come and wipeouts go right? You have got to love this to get out there and want to continue to do it all over again :) I have to ask my self Why? Am I crazy? Or just plain stupid? Some might accuse me of being both. But I will have to be the first to admit, I feel real stupid if I didn't go out again. I respect the ocean very much and know to just relax when things like this occur, don't panic and breathe in fresh air your first chance. Like life sometimes certain events can toss you around and leave you feeling as if you were in a washing machine but if you gave up then you would have missed the next chance to make it. I don't have a death wish in fact, its quite the opposite, I have a life wish and a deep resounding faith in Christ. Learning curves thats all. Nothing more nothing less. We all gothrough them the question is do we run from them or simply ride the next wave in?

Prayers to remember

2003-11-17T16:14:00.000-08:00

Now here are some prayers for me to remember.

Surfers' Prayer
By Brother Mike Sullivan
My wave that art in the ocean
hollow be thy frame
may they come
until I'm done
on earth man, this is heaven
give us this day
our daily sets
and forgive us our drop ins
as we forgive those who drop in against us
and deliver us from closeouts
amen
brother mike

Surfers' Prayer
By Doug Rhodes
Oh God of Surfing Wind and Sea,
let thy bounty come to me.
Give me large, give me small,
any size - I'll take them all.
Just to rise upon the face
to see the crest, my heart will race.
I feel the sea within my veins
but know its you who holds the reins.
If I fall please drop me slow,
as wipeout come and wipeouts go,
I give my life without a fee,
this I pray my God of Sea.........
Just a thought.... Doug Rhodes
Annapolis Surf Club

The Lord's Board Prayer
By Paul Magruder
Our swell that art in the ocean
Hollow be thy shape.
Thy lip shall come
It will be done
In No Cal
As it is in Indo.
Give us this day our daily barrel
and forgive us our drop-ins
as we forgive not those who dropp-in on us.
And lead us not into the reef
but deliver us from the barrel.

Extracted from the letters section of
Surfer Magazine (Nov 2002), Vol. 43, No.12.

Personality from an IQ test???

2003-10-24T10:13:00.000-07:00

Hard to believe but this was my result. Is this who I am??? I like to think out of the box and believe that its is life’s obscurities and unpredictable events which shape who we are and not some set of numbers ... hmm I guess I do adapt to change well and I creativity question things well thinking fast on my feet? Hmmm SUUUPPPER GEENIUS, yes I like the sound of that LOL. Anyways, this was the result....

During the test, you answered four different types of questions — mathematical, visual-spatial, linguistic and logical. We were able to analyze how you did on of those questions, which reveals the way your brain processes information.

We also compared your answers with others who have taken the test, and according to the sorts of questions you got correct, we can tell your Intellectual Type is an Inventive Inquisitor.

You have the unusual distinction of being equally good at math and verbal skills. This means you are a creative thinker and are uniquely good at teaching others through experiences. You are also a great improviser and very good at handling change.

Waves and life

2003-10-13T07:43:00.000-07:00

What drives a person to take a round trip which will put 108 miles on their cars odometer? Surf. That could be the only answer. Good or bad, you take it. It doesn’t mater if the wave conditions or not of the greatest. The one hour wait to get into the beach after the one hour drive means nothing. The echoing words in the back of your conscious rings hard “You have come too far and too long to turn back”. It all comes into play when you first step into the liquid playfield. It is a field like no other known to any sport. The field is ALIVE. It is a 3D environment, constantly changing. The ocean leaves you wanting as you wait. Your desire resists the temptation to become desperation. Then it happens … my Lady has heard your thoughts and gives you that one wave. It’s the one wave that makes it all worth it. The alarm clock, the gas, the time and even the frustration all go away as you pop up on your board and work in sync with the evolving environment around you as you ride a wave into a bliss of joy. Surfing. All it takes is just one, but be fair warned once you get that one, you can never look back at who you were, for now you are somebody new. I have my new dragon to chase now; each is different from the last. Like AA "take it one day at a time" … there is a new blood in me that started 6 months ago, and now I just take it one wave at a time. I am always surprised at how surfing has such a great effect on ones psyche. I can speak from experience now and say how surfing has changed me. I don’t have many regrets in life but if I had to add to the short list of them it would be that I didn’t start surfing earlier in life by like at least 15 years. I wonder sometimes where my life would have gone, what would have happened to me where I would be today. I may never know, but I do know this I am glad that I got here and I don’t ever plan to leave it. I have focus, goals and ambitions. The next wave I eagerly await. I patiently wait for it to come allowing for me to paddle into it and begin to ride where she takes me. If I fall off it … well then I get up and start over again with the same vigor I had for the last. It seems so simple, I guess I have always known this, but this time it’s different. No longer is the mentality just hopeful thought or idle speech, it is now a practiced method. Funny how all this carries over into life, one wave of events can come and just sweep you over. When it happens you are left with only two choices ride it, or break through it and prepare for the next one. When you do ride it you are left with more choices … do you let the events ride you or do you ride the wave? Then when it all ends, what’s next … more choices of course, do I push forward and work through the same process all over again or do I exit the ocean? Then when I do exit the ocean what do I do next? Do I quit forever and hide or do I clean myself off and embrace the next inevitable event in life which will bring me back to start over again. I can remember a time when I would have chosen to leave the beach and never to return, always hiding or dodging the choices we are all forced to make. Allowing for circumstances to knock me over and not be willing to get up and face it all over again. Surfing has changed me. It has sunk its hooks deep into my blood and has taught me to face the waves, make the choices, and ride the event. Then when the event is over, dust myself off and prepare to do it all over again, never fearing the choice. In fact through surfing I have learned to embrace the choices I make. Some choices are not always for the best. However, I would have never known if I didn’t make the choice to begin with. If I fail or make the wrong choice … oh well … its life after all. Sometimes the choices we make, like the waves in the ocean, could be bad judgment and cause us to fall crash and tumble. Like a late take off when trying to catch a wave. But, what you do at that moment is what matters. If I fear being tossed and turned beneath a wave like some rag doll again, I may never find that one wave that makes it all worth wild. In life, if I fear that the choices I make may cause me to fail … I might never succeed. I am prepared to be tossed like a rag doll again and again if it means I could ride just one wave. In life I am prepared to make my choices and venture forward, accepting the result in constant hope that it will bring a better future for me and my son.

Stoked of a different level

2003-10-10T07:51:00.000-07:00

I have been amazed at how differently the season has changed my Lady’s temperament. This week has been my first REAL experience with the fall ocean conditions. She is much faster, harder and more powerful then before. This morning as I stood before her hidden in the mist my heart jumped with excitement, pounding harder in sync with each crashing wave as it came to its end point on the shore which lay at my feet. It was 6:15 am and nobody was in the water yet, so I was the first to paddle out. To be alone out there, the last two times, were both scary and exhilarating. Even though it was only for a few minuets at the most it still makes me wish I had a friend to be with. But my love for my Lady and the waves she gives to me are greater then any fear. Today, Thursday, was the best. I was only in the water for not more then 15 minuets when she gave the perfect wave to produce a perfect ride. At first overcoming the coldness of the water and having to break through many breaks in a row, out of breath I got to the sweet spot. I saw it coming and building not far away, without thinking I turned my board and started to paddle. Not knowing if I was going to catch it I kept stroking my arms. Then I felt it, the back of my board started to lift, and I began to skirt faster forward. Not looking at the shore or my feet, I popped my body up taking a good stance on my board. Being thrusted forward faster, I felt the wall of the wave behind me with my hand. It was awesome; in fact it was downright electrifying to feel the energy beneath me pushing my board faster and faster. I felt the smile grow on my face, when for a few seconds I became fully connected with my Lady and the ride she made just for me. Feeling the control, for the first time, over the entire event which was transpiring. Having confidence in myself I dug my hips into a skilled turn to the left, having felt and realized that I turned into the break of the wave, I easily dug my hips into a fast right turn building up even greater speed. At last the ride ended and I came up from the waters with a smile on my face. For the first time, this morning, I let out a hoot. Today, I have achieved the highest feeling of Stoke I have ever known. Even now, in the evening hours my heart still pounds with excitement. This is because I know, that there are even greater levels of stoke for me to experience. This is what I strive for. This is what gives me the strength to wake up at 4:30 in the am. This is what makes the small ½ hour window of time I have to surf before work, worth it all. I live to know the Stoke. Even though the entire ride was for only a few seconds, the smile on my face, the joy in my heart and the endless ride, still remains to this very moment.

At what point?

2003-09-08T19:37:00.000-07:00

At what point do you realize it was all worth naught? Was it the slap on the forehead which left your own hand throbbing as the sudden realization came to light? Or, was it the slowly churning thoughts that peruse your mind daily for the last few years? When ever it was it happens. You quickly begin to question everything you have done. Except for the few true joys you have come across in life, you just want to sit and cry at the pain of wasted time. It's at this moment you start to do this panic like backstroke in life. As the waves are created by your own uncontrolled hands, you nearly drown in the splashes being slammed up against your face. Finally, you realize that you havent gotten any further backwards then you did forwards. At least moving forward you thought you knew what you were doing. Now, I sit there lost in myself. Trying to figure out who am I. Wondering If I even really know me myself. I search the bowels of my mind and find those true moments of happiness. My sons first smile at me always comes to mind. A hug from my mother and the tears cried at her death. The first wave I had ridden and the future ones I will ride. What it all boils down to is this ... smiles, tears and freedom. That is who I am. Now, I have a whole new life to live, or better said to re-discover. How or when I get there, will not be the question. The truth is in the journey and adventure I will find in my path to true self discovery.

Testing the waters

2003-09-03T21:51:00.000-07:00

Ok so I at least made an attempt. Sad to say that the waters tested, I may have failed in my efforts. Isn't life funny? Sometimes you want so much of something that when you finally get it, you screw it up or you just don't know what to do with it. For so long, I have always dreamed of my ideal girl. She would be smart, funny and without a doubt very beautiful. Basically a hot chick with brains and a joy in her heart. Sounds like a myth huh? I had always thought so too, at least until I met her. She has everything a guy would want in a woman and is very hot too. But I think I said that before. As it turns out, we had many things in common, COOL!! But we also had more things not in common as well. But worst of all, while trying to show her a good time on an island of fun, I may have only succeeded in boring the shit out of her. Well, I wish I could be more then who I am sometimes. But at what cost would that be? I would only become what I detest most of all ... somebody who is fake. I just can't do that.

Oh well, at least I have found a new friend who is sexy, smart and funny. Life is never a total loss when you can still be graced with a smile from an angel every now and then. Besides, my greatest joy is my son, and my true passion is found in my love of surfing. Maybe one day, there will be a special somebody to complement those facets in my life. Until then as every day passes, I can hear my lady calling and tugging at my heart. She cries out to me saying "come surf with me". I miss her and must get back to her very soon. I think Friday, after work I will go to HB and dance with my lady. I eagerly wait for her to wash me new with loving kiss of ocean spray and to fill my lungs with her sweet perfumed sent.

Swimming with sharks

2003-08-30T09:23:00.000-07:00

They say that the little gray men are coming in to collect their taxes. A really big Great White shark has been spotted off the coast near the surfing heaven of San Onofre. From all that I have read and heard it has become more of media frenzy, rather then shark frenzy. As it seems this shark and its pups have been surfing with the San O crowd for a few weeks before the warning. However, things changed due to the most recent shark attack and death of a 50 year old woman in the "Blood Triangle" who was feeding sea lions while wearing a full diving suit. Hmm, can anybody, say bait?? None the less, it happened, she was viciously attacked by the cunning beast. Even though, majestic as it may be a Great White has no grace or mercy when attacking. A true attack would never be known or seen until it is too late. They are very intelligent when it comes to hunting. I feel bad for the lady who died, but not because she died, instead because of HOW she died. If ever there has been statement such as "eaten alive", it is most improperly used when it comes to being described by a Great White shark attack. A Great White will quickly swim from beneath the depths of the ocean or from out of your view somewhere, as if it were a stealth vessel unseen by any means. Without warning it will strike with its hundreds of serrated teeth, ripping into its prey. Shredding a chunk of flesh away its victim, it will knawel on the tasty morsel as if it were an appetizer before a meal. Without mercy, it will closely watch its meal; helplessly flounder in excruciating pain and agony. The Great White will watch the bloody seen; as if it were a spell binding movie and he was the captivated audience watching it. Instead of pop corn being tossed into the mouth of the viewer, shards of ripped flesh float around its wicked smile, as it gnashes the tasty treat in it mouth. Intently, it awaits the final finale. The slow and painful death of its selected meal. In a big display, the prey will suffer without any known description of feeling to man, as it nears the final stage of death. A contorting carcass will begin go into shock from such pain or blood loss. Its body will begin to flip back with such a display of movement and strength, it could only be described as a final explosion of a firework show. Then with its last twitches of movement, as if were a last big shiver of the thought of death, the body will vibrate uncontrolled for a few seconds before its soul and conscious fully depart its vessel of life. However, for the Great White, it is in this moment of finale death where, it begins to truly feed. In a frenzy and without any regret it will begin to rip chunks of flesh off the dead body, creating a cloud of blood in the water. After a few seconds of the spectacle of terror and fright, the only thing that could be seen would be the evil smile like jaws of the Great White, shaking back and fourth as it violently tears flesh off its main course. The whole seen will become a blur and oddly enough, it will end just as quickly as it began. When the majestic beast with its devilish smile has had its fill, as if it were a heroin junkie walking away oblivious to the world around him and planning his next fix, it will turn its great body around and swim away planning its next meal time show.

I cant wait to go surfing again.

Even with the sharks in the water, all of life comes with an inherent risk of danger. If you live life in fear, hiding in your private little world, afraid that there might be bears in the street. Well, then you will miss life in its self. Yes, there is danger out there in the world, hell there is danger in the food we eat, but without out it life would not be what it is ... unpredictable. It is this unpredictability in life and in people the will define who we are. If I lived life in fear of death and died having never known the splendors of which life could bring, then wouldnt I have been dead even before I died?

The real odds of being attacked by a shark are very low, in fact to date there had been only 10 deaths due to sharks since 1952, and the one before last was in 1994. In 51 years only 10 deaths. Wow, I wonder how many planes have fallen out of the sky in the last 51 years. My point is simple; some understanding of risk should be adhered to. However, to become blinded by fear is ignorant. True there has been a great number of "shark incidents", like sightings, bumping, brushings and even a small nibble or two. Sharks like people are a curious breed and often explore what is around them, including people. So the fact remains, there should be some caution taken. Like, hmm I dont know ... be smart, its just a thought. Right now in San O, the "real" frenzy is the news media. All of this attention could spark up an interest in people who might actually be looking for the sharks attention. I told you people are curious too. So, I think I will sit out the "I see a shark" frenzy, and surf elsewhere for one hot minute. I will eagerly await my return to San O, after the hype and media has gone away.

As, for the Labor Day weekend, well, I will be testing the waters at Catalina Two Harbors. I am going camping for 2 days with a new friend. I only hope not to disappoint her. But all that is for another entry.

Reflections

2003-08-21T21:28:00.000-07:00

As I sit and ponder the good morning of surf I had yesterday. A smile comes to my face when I remember being the first out in the beach and watching a purpose traverse its graceful path across the ocean. It was beautiful. I want to go again tomorrow but the week has taken its toll on me. As it seems I must take care of my grandfather this week while, my grandmother is out traveling with her friends. My grandfather enjoys having me there, spending time with him. It gives us a chance to joke around and talk. But at the same time it aggravates him that I have to go make sure he has what he needs when there are my older aunt and uncle with there 4 kids who wont lift a finger to help him. I go there and have to treat all of the like children, including my grandfather. Well, I guess it all has a bigger reason that I cant see yet. In the mean time I shall just enjoy the time my grandfather and I have together. He is really a funny guy and its feels good to give back even just a small percentage of what I may never be able to repay the love my grandparents have given to me.
Well at least, I will forever have my lady to turn to when I need the comfort of a gentle kiss of kindness. Its amazing to me at how much nature could change one's own frame of mind. I look forward to the day when I can effortlessly ride my lady of waves. As for now I reflect on the pleasures of the 4 rides she gave me in the hour and fifteen minuets I spent with her yesterday. And, I look forward to the next time I am out there merging mind, body and soul with true freedom ... the ocean

Now is a time for time at that time

2003-08-19T21:46:00.000-07:00

What the hell does all that mean? Simple, like it was once said "Now is the time for all good men", most likely right before they devoured a big keg of beer, LOL.

What this means is ... "now is a time" ... you know, like the one where everybody gathers together. "For time" ... like the kind one would cherish while holding close to his heart the sent of his lover. "At that time" ... like one that is greatly anticipated and not easily forgotten. Remember after all, all time on this planet is an absolute and very relevant. What makes each time different from the next time, is how we select to view it. See I told you it was easy and it makes perfect sense. While, at least it does to me. Especially to me, considering I have gotten all my things prepared for an early awaking tomorrow. Yup, you guessed it!! I need some good ole' quality time with my lady. I will be going surfing tomorrow before work, and I am very excited. Boy I tell I am definitely a couch case waiting to happen. LOL

Oh well, today was another fantastic, super-delic uneventful day. So, I made the best of the cards dealt and I was happily basking in the joy that I still have a breath to breathe.

Thats what happens when you think!!

2003-08-17T19:50:00.000-07:00

Just when I thought that nothing could mess with such a good day. I discover I was wrong. Damm!!!! I went to go buy some cookies at the store only to discover that I didn't have my last $20.00. Bitch !!! What happened?? Well, the best I could figure is that I dropped it at the beach this morning and some lucky dog scored with the last of my cash :( Oh well, its probably for the best. I would have most likely eaten the money and the cookies too. Boy thats all I need is a BIGGER cookie ass. LOL. No really, I was going to go to see a movie in Huntington Beach, with it. I was looking forward to seeing it too. It is called "Step into liquid". From the clips it seems like a totally rad movie. Hmm, maybe I wasn't meant to see this week, WOW my life could have been saved and I will never know it. Oh well, maybe there is a less dramatic reason for me to having lost the money. What can I do? Cry? Scream? Or just laugh about it, learn the lesson and mix me another drink? Hold on let me stir my vodka and coke, LOL. Can you guess which on I picked? :) Like I said it's a good thing I get paid Thursday. And better yet I have been spared the 20 additional pounds in weight. LOL

A Great Day

2003-08-17T16:43:00.000-07:00

Today has been one of the BEST days that I have gone surfing yet. It was AWESOME!!! I caught more waves today then I have done in the past. They were great. It's a wonderful feeling inside when you know that your lady has done you justice. Boy, I tell you today my lady (the ocean) has given me a sweet kiss as we rode the waves touching the sky above us. It was a perfect complement after what happened yesterday. Yesterday, I got up early ... like around 8:30 or 9. Well thats early for a Saturday. ;) Drove 50 miles out to San O' only to have to turn around due to the over flow of traffic and no parking space at my favorite surf beach. :( That really sucked. Oh well, at least it gave me some time to spend with my grand parents, we went to lunch and had a good day.
So after yesterday, I knew I had to get up even earlier today. I got up and got out by 7 this morning. I touched water around 8:30 or 8:45. I was very excited to be there. At first for the first 2 hours it was really slow. Even though we had a good swell, the waves were not breaking good. The first wave I caught in that time period began as a good one but after a few seconds of riding it, all of its energy died out :(
Now the last 4 hours of my time with my lady of liquid were spectacular! I don't know what had happened but one after another I started to catch a few good waves. Of course there were a couple that I had a hard time with, but no serious "wipe outs". A couple of my rides I did struggle with but refusing to give in I maintained control of my board and managed to pop my self up, still giving me a few moments of true ecstasy to spend with my lady.
I tell you, drugs have nothing on the high that I get when I surf. Thank God for this wondrous pleasure He created just for surfers

Thought of the day

2003-08-17T16:23:00.000-07:00

There is somthing scary about cheese that does not melt when you cook it. ... Just thinking out loud

Making the best of a bad sceen

2003-08-15T21:59:00.000-07:00

Well, ok I knew I could do it. I only had to show the owner of the company that I was able to talk the talk, but more importantly walk the walk too. This wasnt very hard for me considering that talking the talk is walking the walk in my field of work. Sales. Sales is one of the most lucrative careers as long as you could sell. Good for me I could sell an ant a can of black flag LOL. However the sad part is that I most likely wont see any commissions from this job. The owner, a relative smart guy has found a way to really circumvent commsions by using temps. Ugg, a temp ... me WTF was I thinking? Oh yeah, money I have none at this time and I need to eat as well. But wait a second ... 6 hours a day ... $14.00 an hour ... well it looks like I could scratch eating off the list and barely pencil in paying the bills. Well if I can't laugh at it who will? The fact remains I am good at what I do and I am sure that a better paying job is just around the corner for me. So in the mean time I make what has been dealt to me into the best possible scenario available. I find what makes this insult to my career a compliment to my life. Surfing!! After getting the owner of the company a few GREAT leads that should put a few $$$$$ in his pocket, it gave me some room to ask him for a favor. After all life gives you back what you put in right? I certainly could not have asked anything of him without giving him something that was of value to him as well. Seeing my door open Thursday, I popped the question "Could I bring my surf board to the office?" After giving me a funny look with a smile he said ok we will see how that goes. Grateful for his willingness to work with me, I assured him that my board will not be in the way and is kept neatly in a canvas bag. He liked that and agreed to my request. The best thing is, that this has now put the ball back in his court and assures himself hard quality work from me, which without any problem I will be giving to him every day that I work for him.
So my Friday began at 4am when I awoke to my alarm. I hopped into the shower and loaded up my board. With some smart thinking the night before I had all my work clothes ready and hanging in the car ready to go. I got to the beach by 5:30 am it was still dark out I waited for a few minuets before I got dressed in my wetsuit and headed for the water. It was great no wind good waves and not too crowded. Just perfect. I did catch one wave and that was all that it took to send my sprit soaring high all day, to be honest with you, I would not have even had to caught a wave, my sprit was flying and my heart began racing the second my foot touched the cool sand. Its bliss when given a kiss of heaven through mother earths arms. Of course, my inexperience is still very evident. That fact was clearly shown in the 3 late take off's which resulted in some serious wipe outs!! They were just too F*@EN Awesome !@!@! Even my errors excite me, specially when I reflect upon them and begin to evaluate how I could change the outcome next time. You see it excites me to know that I am learning. There was one wave I wish I could have caught. It was a beautiful wave about 6 feet tall perfect shape. As for me I screwed up with the wave before it. I tried to catch the first one but it fizzled out leaving me stranded, a more experienced surfer would have recognized the false wave and have not tried to push off on it. Anyways, when I began to paddle back I saw her coming for me, towering above me as if she was trying to kiss the sky above us. I was too late, knowing that I could not get my board back around in time I took cover beneath my board side ways trying to get under the powerful force barreling down on me. God it was GREAT!!!. I was disappointed because she should have had been mine, but I was excited because I know one day she will come back for me and give me a second chance to kiss that glorious morning sky with her.
Well after an hour and 15 minuets of dancing in the life of my liquid queen, and having witnessed the awesome presence of a graceful purpose passing along in her path to her other wise required presence, it was time to go. I walked away from the beach today another person ... more like a "renewed" person. Happy just to be here, happy to go to a ridiculously low paying job. Go figure, who would have thought I could develop such a perspective and outlook on things. I assure you if this was a year ago I would still have been struggling to get out of my bed not wanting to wake up. Just making a poor situation a more pleasant experience in life, thats all that one could do.
Well, I got to work got dressed in the bathroom, combed my hair and joyfully walked in my board into the office. It was a surprise, to the owner and my co worker that I had already been out surfing. They could not believe that I could go from a beach look to a professional look, and still maintain the highest of sprits. My day went quickly and I was happy all day. I look forward to the next time I go surfing before work. I think that will be Tuesday, after all I dont want to take advantage of the owner and his kindness in letting me bring my board to the office. It was very cool of him to do that for me, and weather he realizes it or not, that simple act of kindness to me has earned him my greatest respect. Funny how life works that way, its always the unknown that gets noticed more.

Spirituality

2003-08-14T21:57:00.000-07:00

I often have to ask myself "what is true spirituality?" Does it come from the words of a book like the bible, Koran or even a man whit a big belly and a funny name? There are all kinds of beliefs and even gods that people tend to worship. As for myself, I know who my true savior is, it is Christ. However, even then just because I know Christ, does that define spirituality? When I really begin to think about it, I discover that the fact that sprit and soul are two different entities. Each with its own essence. But when it comes to it, it is still your life which depicts your own spirituality. I have always felt that religion has really clouded up the "true" meaning of spirituality which is in reality ... "self". Self will be defined by the many different roles that we take in our life. Its a combination of our times of peace, pain and love. As for myself, I have grown into my own form of spirituality, one that has not become tainted with an attitude of servitude to religion. You see, even I got caught up into the swell of religion and fell to the traps of servitude, well completely ignoring the true honor of being a servant of Christ, but I leave that story for another time. Right now, my inner self and spirituality is based upon the healing factors of knowing the love of God along with an understanding of Zen philosophies. To be even further honest, the true feeling of my inner self and spirituality can be felt the most as I am in a line up waiting for a wave to carry me to my next ride. So basically, for me I guess spirituality can be best defined by my inner feelings and how I am able to view the world around me knowing that God has given me His purest love.

Back into the blue I'll see you soon

2003-08-14T21:36:00.000-07:00

"Back into the blue I'll see you soon. But when you seen no one, that's where I should be.
And when you hear nothing, your listening to me"
Evenrude "Gravity"

If I had a theme song this would be it.

Where did the weekend go?

2003-08-12T21:04:00.000-07:00

Well the weekend came and gone. I had my son this weekend; the time I spend with him is too short. I am often in soft tears on my drive home after I drop him off back with his mother. I miss him so very much, he will never understand how much I love him and miss him. Oh well, I will continue to be the best father I can with what little time I have with him.
Friday, I decided to finally clean my kitchen and restroom. They were seriously a mess, I fell as if it may have had played some part in my own depression, after cleaning them, it still felt empty here.
Yesterday, I started my new job. To my disappointment the owner of the company wants me to only work 6 hours a day. OMG, I hope this changes very quickly, if he continues to work me like this it will me a major reduction in my pay. Try about a $15,000 a year difference. I will barely be able to survive. But, like my mom has taught me, I will survive and strive forward. And like Paul Madison, an old supervisor, taught me ... I must roll with the punches. The best I can do is work hard, wait for a better position and make the best of a lousy situation. I will be making plans and trying hard to work in a good surf session in the early morning. Being that my new job is only a half hour away from Huntington Beach ... just making the best out of a poor situation. Thanks mom.

A Posting from NeoN D. SuRFeR

2003-08-12T20:46:00.000-07:00

I think I will use this as my memorial; it was posted today in a newsgroup I frequent. I have found the NeoN D. is very spiritual as well as political. He seems like a colorful person; maybe I may get the chance to meet him one day at San Onafre Beach.

Consider the waves of the ocean.

At any given moment, a wave is limited in space: extending from Point A to
Point B, it's just so big and no bigger, isolated by the troughs that
separate it from other waves. It's also limited in time: it arose at some
moment in the past and will crash against the shore at some moment in the
future. And it's never at rest but is in constant, turbulent motion.

Like waves, all the things I encounter are limited, isolated, and in motion,
and so am I. From my Point A to Point B is just 5'10" and 153 pounds, and
not only my body but my personality, history, philosophy, social status, net
worth - everything I might identify with Me is dwarfed by the much larger
totality of Not Me. Within the great expanse of time it's a frighteningly
short span from the moment of my birth to the moment when I will crash
against the shore we call death. And both I and all the other finite,
wavelike beings undergo the turbulence of constant activity and change,
often creating new problems and limitations as we slosh up against each
other.

Most of us respond to this situation by looking for ways to swell up our Me
wave as big as possible. If I can inflate myself with just a few more
buckets of money, knowledge, affection, muscles, prestige, sharper clothes,
cooler attitudes, more intense sensations, maybe I'll finally overcome
limitation and become the King of All Waves. Or maybe I can overcome the
ravages of time and death by freezing all waves in place - after I get them
to stop sloshing and line up my way. Then everything will stay the way I
want it and I'll live forever.

But history books and the tragedies of Shakespeare are full of people trying
these strategies, and they haven't worked yet. Perhaps, then, I might be
ready to try a new strategy. I can begin by noticing that I've considered
only the surface of life, the world above Dotted Line C. If I look beneath
it, I find that something underlies my little wave - the vast ocean, from
which I arise and into which I eventually subside.

You cannot conceive the many without the one.
- Plato

Unlike waves, the ocean is not limited to puny sizes and shapes, and while
wave after wave crashes into oblivion, the ocean lives on. What's more, the
ocean connects every wave to every other wave, dissolving isolation, and
it's immune to the turbulence of change - even when there are tempests at
the surface, the ocean rests in its bed in perfect tranquility.

What I want to do, then, is be more like the ocean. What separates me from
it? Amazingly, nothing. The closer we look for the division between wave and
ocean, the clearer it becomes that there isn't any. Dotted Line C is merely
an imaginary structure in a diagram. In fact, there's no such "thing" as a
wave, no such limited, self-existent object. It's just a function of the
limitless ocean, a way the ocean expresses itself. So my quest to overcome
limitation has been misdirected all along. Instead of trying to swell my
wave higher or manipulate the other waves to suit me, I can just settle into
my overlooked base till I fully experience that I've been ocean all along.

Hey I learned a new trick LOL

2003-08-07T22:17:00.000-07:00

Well going through some of the blogs on blogger.com I had got some really great ideas for my blog. First, thanks to Green Diamondz and her blog, with some research I was able to add one of my favorite songs to my blog. Although, having only the music is not exactly what I wanted. I wanted to and the entire video to my blog. The video is awesome the music complements a long boarder in Hawaii as he just gets sick on the waves. It is just fucken awesome, I cant seem to get enough of it. Well sadly after spending much time converting the ASF file to a MPEG file it was too damm large for my cheap ass using the free service to upload the vid to. Well luckily, thanks to my time downloading SMR movies from the internet and converting them to VCD I was able to strip the music from the video and convert it to a WAV file. I am sure with more time and further effort I will figure out how to add the whole video to my blog. As for now, I will be contempt and happy with the fact that I have been able to get this far. Better yet, I didnt even buy one of those books for dummies to learn how to get this far LOL.

I went surfing today. Do the words "Lake Placid" give you any clues to the conditions of the ocean? Well to rub salt into my disappointments I spent an hour and a half just getting to the beach, thanks to an accident :( !!! Then when I finally got there it was as if all the waves were sleeping. Oh well, it happens sometimes even my Lady Earth needs her rest. But still the die hard, I went after whatever I could get. Trust me it was much. To top it all off I wasn't even at the top of my game. Not as if I have much out there any ways. :) But I will take what I could get and use what I have. When I finally left the lake ... opps I mean the beach, there were but a handful of surfers out there. Even though it was hard I was still out there. And to be out there with my lady and her soothing waves, its still freedom for me. I did meet another new surfer. His name was Larry. Larry was from Texas and he (like myself), was learning how to surf too. Many props to Larry. Its a good feeling to know that I am not alone out there with an unstopped desire to surf. Cool.

Well, its coming close to the time for Family Guy to come on, and I am missing Samurai Jack. Not to mention I have another job interview tomorrow at 10am and I am on my 2nd vodka and soda drink right now HA HA HA. Damm and I nearly lost all that I had just typed ... BADD MOUSE BAAADDD MOUSSE!!! Thank God for an undo feature.

Interviews

2003-08-07T10:30:00.000-07:00

Ok, for the last 3 weeks I have been having interview after interview. Each job seeming to be a hopeful. But at last there had been no response to my efforts. I wonder what it is; I have the skills and the experience. Fortunately, one of my interviews finally paid off. I found out yesterday that I was accepted for an inside sales position. Wow, not to mention how excited I am about taking $10,000 a year cut in pay. I am being sarcastic. Anyways, I start Monday at least now I will be able to get the rent and car payment made and pay my child support. I figure if I only eat 3 days a week I could make up what I fall short on in my monthly income. Oh well, I could stand to loose a few pounds, I am getting tired of asking “Does this make my ass look fat" LOL. Well I know there is still hope a better job awaits me out there somewhere. Or who knows maybe this would blossom into a far more lucrative position then I fore see at the moment. Anyways, I made my calls to the other companies who contacted me, which leaves me with one of two options: #1 I could stay home and try to drown my depression in vodka and juice while lying around naked. Or, #2 I could eat my small breakfast then go surfing in a few hours. Hmmm, tough choice let me see. Stay home and become a drunk beached whale while wallowing in my own stew of sadness or go to the beach and be the whale thats free to roam. I think I ll go surfing. Well at least for a few hours I can be free.

New life in life

2003-08-06T19:03:00.000-07:00

I once thought that the world's greatest comic tragedy is in one's own life. This might be the reason why I tend to laugh at myself so often. I don't know much about life except for that I am living it as it comes. I try to take every day for what its worth, but for some odd reason there always seems to another wave rolling forward to knock me down. So I guess the best way to describe myself is moody. There are times when I feel down and other times when I feel high. Is life supposed to be filled with so many uncertainties? Many ups and downs. I have learned that my moods tend to flow with my lifes moments. Basically whatever is going on in my at the time will reflect how my mood is. However, even that tends to lead to a false sense of security in myself. I have become pretty accustomed to this way of living, at least until recently. On April 16th, 2003, my whole idea of life changed. This is only the second time in my life where I had been given another positive milestone to grow on. As for anything prior to these 2 events there had only been 2 other events in my life that created a major change in life and not nearly for the best. Those 2 negative events were marked by my mothers death at age 11 and having being sent to prison (long story). But as for July 25th, 1999, now that was a day in which will forever guide me in all my choices, the birth of my son. But as for April 16th, this was an event that returns that same feeling of holding my son for the very first time, every time ... Surfing.
Surfing was something I had always wanted to do for the last 15 years of my life, but never did. Why? I was always waiting on other people to show me or help me learn. It wasn't until I was giving the old don't call me I will call you from this hot surfer chick, that I realized nobody was going to give me what I wanted I would have to go out and get it myself. So thats exactly what I did, it was a Tuesday as I sat in my work van eating McDonalds looking through a Recycler when I came across a surf board for $50 bucks. I went for it I got hooked up with a 6'8" short board a wetsuit and a cheap pair of knock off sunglasses, all for a grand total of $95. It was a deal I wasn't going to let go. Being that my ex-job sales route took me to San Diego 2 times a week, the very next day (4-16-03), before returning home I stopped at San Onofre Surf Beach. I remember how nervous, scarred and embarrassed I was. I felt out of place and was worried what may happen. Well, I sucked up my fears and embarrassment and went in to the changing room to change out of my work clothes and in to my wetsuit. Oh yeah, did I also mention I also had a sort of fear of the ocean, not really an over powering one but a fear none the less. But when the time came I made a quick assessment of what was greater my fear of the ocean or my desire to surf? I made my choice, grabbed my board and stepped in to the water. At first it was cold but thanks to the wetsuit I didn't freeze my ass off. To my surprise it was MUCH HARDER then it looked. I struggled just get my balance. It was even more difficult for me to get out into a line up. Luckily, the waves were very soft which allowed for me to get out to the line up. However, this wasn't accomplished easily but refusing to give up I made it out there. So I over came one hurdle, my next step was to catch a wave and ride it ... easy right? I could not have been further from the truth. After paddling time after time to try and catch a wave I started to notice how far out I was. YIKES!!! I swear a few more feet and I would be touching the buoy, then whats after that? I become shark bait or do I suffer a drowning first? Yeah, I felt my heart begin to beat harder and faster then ever before, I thought I was going to die of a heart attack. After a few seconds of being panicked I relaxed when I realized and remembered to breathe. Calming down I started to think about the situation, I figured if this short board of 6'8" could hold my fat ass of 205 lbs it wasn't going to sink any time soon. Also as I looked around I saw that there were other surfers out even further. True they were more experienced then me but at least I became comfortable with the fact that I was still moderately at a safe distance. So once my heart rate came back to normal, I began to feel the waves as they came rolling beneath me. So soft in and out, in and out. I learned in order to "flow" you had to become one with the wave, to feel it inside of you and know when she is ready for you paddle with her. Taking her lead and not my own, I was able to come more inshore to where I felt a bit more comfortable. Well, even though this was the start of a lesson in which I am still learning today, my initial goal still remained un reached. I still haven't caught a wave !!! But, I wasn't ready to give up even after my little panic attack which gave birth to a new lesson. I continued to push off and try hard as hell to catch a wave. Finally after about an hour and 1/2 of trying, I found myself in the right place at the right time. I can still remember the sound of a beginning roar growing around me, my board and body being sucked in backwards as I paddled my arms forward. I was just beginning to hold my breath when I felt the rear of my board and legs begin to lift up. This was it and I could feel it all around me as I started skirting forward and faster, it felt as if I were floating, once I knew I no longer had control I decided to pop up on the board. I didn't get to my feet. But for a few seconds I was on my knees riding a wave and it felt like heaven. My first ride lasted only a couple of seconds before the feelings of being one with the earth and nature were replaced by a barrel of confusion and disorientation from being knocked off the board. So there I was, one second I was feeling the earths entire presence to being tossed, turned and rolled like a rag doll beneath the crashing wave. I felt my board pulling my leg forward while the rest of my body was doing some major acrobatic maneuvers beneath the water. After, the initial shock and surprise I was able to keep sound head on my shoulders and not panic. I quickly relaxed and pulled my self up. It was GREAT!!! I was so excited and this time my hart rate shot up again but for a better reason then fear, it was pure unadulterated joy. I pulled my board back and tried to get back out there. After a while of fighting to get back out I decided to come back in. I sat there on the beach for a spell and just watched as the others made it look so easy. But as for my self I was filled with joy and a new feeling of self worth. I knew from that moment this was going to be me. The feelings that I begin to reflect on while I was out were like none other I have ever felt except for the first time I held my son. Its a feeling that there was no wrong or right, just completeness. A sense that there wasn't anything in the world that could harm or hurt you. It was as if time itself had stopped and you just began to blend in to natures pure energy. Still sitting there reflecting all those wonderful feelings an older surfer walked past and gave me a "hang 10" sign by holding out his thumb and pinky and folding the rest of his digits. He never knew but by giving me this hand gesture he gave me the courage to not just over come my own embarrassments, but also the assurance that I will even over come myself in all that I do. Thanks dude whoever you were; he made me feel welcomed, into a new world of new feelings.
So from that day forward I have been surfing, each time I am out there in the ocean it is as if the world is separate from my self. All my problems, stress and worries are left behind in the trunk of my car. Sure they are still there eagerly awaiting my return but at least for 2 to 6 hours they don't belong to me. I have thus come further in my surfing abilities; I am far from even being a novice, I am still considered a noob (newbie). But, with each paddle I push my self further. I have a new long board (9'0") now, and boy is that one so much easier to ride and balance on. I have found that surfing has not only offered me a new life in life, but it has also carried out in my own personal life as well. There is still much for me to overcome both personally and in my surfing and no matter how tough things may get at least I know deep down inside that I too will overcome.